On Rupert, we carry two handheld GPSs but we do not have a chartplotter, radar, or AIS. With strong support from Derek Osmond, who is a very experienced sailor with several transatlantic trips under his belt and his own yacht laid up in the Caribbean, I plotted a succession of waypoints bringing us down between the Treshnish Isles, Rubh’a Chaoil on Mull, and Gometra. Needless to say, we didn’t see any of them. Derek and I fixed our position every 15 minutes or so, so that any error in inputting data would show up quickly and we abandoned any plans that we had to visit Staffa. I plotted a waypoint just north of Iona in the hope that if the fog lifted, we would still have the option of sailing down the Sound of Iona. But it didn’t, so we plotted a new course to the west and although I think that at times we were less than half a mile from the shore, which, fortunately, is relatively clean, we again saw nothing. With no clearance, Tinker’s Hole was out of the question, so we decided to head for Scalasaig on Colonsay, which involved a long detour to avoid the Torran Rocks. We had been motoring, but at 18.00 we set a course just south of west for the north end of Colonsay and this enabled us to hoist the main and make about 6 knots motor sailing. For most of this time, John was on the helm, Gillian produced a steady stream of food, tea, and coffee, while Derek and I continued to plot our progress. Briefly the visibility lifted to about a mile, but as we closed to within this range of the land, the fog rolled in again. At 20.00 there were euphoric cheers as the fog lifted to reveal a beach which we guessed was either Rubh’a Geadha on the north end of Colonsay or Newfoundland! In the belief that our troubles were over we relaxed as we followed the coast southwards towards Scalasaig, but we had cheered too soon and a couple of miles out another bank encircled us in a total blanket.
Luckily we had kept the GPS plot going, but we now had another problem in that we were being carried south at quite a speed by a strong ebb tide so that there was a risk of being swept past the entrance to the harbour without seeing it. At the waypoint off the harbour we put the helm down and headed for the shore, still without seeing anything. After a few minutes, two bright white lights appeared high up and side by side. I was aware from the chart that there are leading lights on the pier at Scalasaig, but if these were they and they were side by side we had a serious problem! We held our course and our nerve until a very large bow appeared immediately above us and under the lights, which turned out to be on the bridge of the island ferry tied up at Scalasaig pier. Gin was broken out at 21.15, thirty seconds after we tied up! We ate on board and the mood of exhilaration, and dare I say it, self-satisfaction, continued, but of course, all the plaudits are really due to the modern miracle of navigation which is GPS, even in the handheld form.
The gods must have approved our adventure, because it is hard to imagine a day more different than the one that followed. We were woken at 06.00 by glorious sunshine flooding in to the saloon from a clear blue sky. Plans were laid over another leisurely breakfast. Having covered more than 60 miles the previous day, we now found ourselves ahead of schedule again and we could afford some time out. Exercise was called for and we spent the morning walking around the island, enjoying the sunshine, the scenery and the wildlife, including another sea otter, which crossed the road in front of us. We ended up in the hotel, where we rewarded ourselves with a couple of beers, brewed at the island’s micro brewery, and some really good smoked salmon sandwiches made with home baked bread. We were faced with the choice of staying put and dining in the hotel again that night (very tempting) or heading on, and in the event the “headers on” won the day. We cast off at 16.45 and with John on the helm, and a fair tide we shot through the Sound of Islay hitting 11 knots over the ground at one point. Once through the Sound, we headed north and picked up a mooring in the attractive anchorage at Craighouse on Jura. We inflated the dinghy, but after a good meal around the saloon table and a couple of tongue loosening libations, going ashore seemed surplus to requirements.(This is what I mean by a cosy saloon being conducive to mellow conversation). In the course of our chat, we were visited by six swans, which caused John to observe that if the young ones formed a circle it would make a signet ring and Derek to ask if throwing maize on the male would give you corn on the cob. Oh dear. Perhaps we should have gone ashore!
Wednesday the 24th June was another wonderful day. We all went ashore and I pottered around this pretty village while the rest of the crew toured the Jura Distillery and sampled its product. When we met up again, we had lunch and visited the restored Puffer “VIC 32” which was berthed at the jetty and which is available for charter and was much enjoyed by a party from the RStGYC earlier in the season. In the afternoon sunshine, we drifted back to Rupert and decided to head for Gigha. To my surprise, Ardminish Bay was crowded and all the mooring buoys were taken, so, for the first time on this cruise, we would have to lie to an anchor. Anchoring, of course, is another of cruising’s dark arts which I needed to relearn, but we worked out the depth (4.4 m.), buoyed and laid out our 25lb. CQR, and paid out 12m. of stout chain and 10m. of warp.(Notice the facility with which I mix metric and imperial!). It was another beautiful evening, with hardly a zephyr of breeze, and of course at that time of year there is virtually no darkness, so after a pleasant meal at the restaurant at the head of the slip, we went for a gentle stroll. Back on board, by way of a nightcap, we put the Old Pulteney whisky, which Derek had purchased, to the test and it stood up well!
An hour later, I woke up smartly in the certain knowledge that all was not well. Derek was already in the companionway and he confirmed that it was now blowing quite hard from the east, kicking up a lumpy short sea and leaving us on a lee shore. Our anchor was at full stretch and while we were not dangerously close to anyone else, we had fallen back towards two yachts, which were on moorings and, of course, had not fallen back to the same degree. There was no immediate problem, but I decided to set an anchor watch and as I settled down to take the first shift, Derek drew my attention to the fact that the dinghy and the engine, which had been attached to a cleat on the stern, were gone. Later, at about 04.00, while on his own watch, Derek spotted them high and dry on the rocky foreshore. By then, the wind had got up to more than 20 knots and the sea had increased proportionately. It was broad daylight and normally, I would have lifted the anchor and headed out, but I was reluctant to abandon the dinghy, even though I didn’t have much hope of retrieving it in working order. Around 06.00 a gentleman (who we now know as Blessed St Andrew!) appeared in sleeping attire on the bow of a neighbouring Clyde Cruising Club yacht called Sarabanda. When he had finished adjusting his anchor chain, I gave him a call on the VHF and rather tentatively asked him if he would bring us ashore to collect the dinghy. To my relief, he was very pleasant, but said that he was on his own and that he hadn’t had much sleep because of the conditions. He said that if I could give him a couple of hours to have a nap, he would be pleased to help. In fact, no more than an hour later, he climbed in to his dinghy and ferried John and Derek ashore from where they collected both dinghy and engine completely unharmed. The moral of the story is that a bowline is a very fine knot but needs to be kept under tension!
And that really ends the adventures of Rupert and his (or should it be her) friends in Scotland. With order restored and a good breakfast under our belts, we raised the anchor, the mainsail and the No.3 jib and with more than 20 knots of wind on the beam, a fair tide and bright sunshine we had a sparkling sail to Glenarm. John, at the helm, was whooping with the exhilaration of it all and even when the wind fell light as we closed the Antrim coast, we continued to sail for the sheer pleasure of it. I hadn’t visited the marina at Glenarm before, but it is a fine facility, very conveniently located and we received a warm welcome, so I would definitely use it again as a stepping stone to Scotland. The following day, Friday 26th June, we had an easy sail as far as Ardglass, setting the No 2 jib, (on the basis that it was the only sail in the locker, which we hadn’t used thus far!). On Saturday the weather returned to dull and misty and we returned to Dun Laoghaire. We never saw Lambay Island although we passed very close to it, but after our earlier adventures this seemed like small beer. We did pass through a pod of Minke whales, which caused much more excitement and we also had dolphins surfing from side to side on our bow wave.
Overall, it was a highly successful, challenging, and thoroughly entertaining cruise, which definitely whetted my appetite to do more of the same in my own boat. In the second week as in the first, I was blessed with an experienced, talented and compatible crew and having people on board who know what to do and do it, when the challenges come, removes all the stress. My thanks to all of them. And what of Rupert? Well, she is back in racing mode and we have had a most enjoyable and reasonably successful season. But sometimes after racing, over a pint, those of the crew who were in Scotland remember some of the adventures, some of the places which we particularly liked or some of the things which made us laugh and the unspoken question is “ Where will we go next year?” We will have to see. But one thing is certain, Rupert is up for it. It is a particular pleasure (and a safety factor) to cruise a boat that performs so well and is so easy to sail. She is cosy and comfortable for three or four people and her Scottish cruise proved beyond doubt that with minimal upgrading she is very close to this sailor’s (perhaps “gentleman’s” is a bit presumptuous) ideal cruising yacht.
But while I am on the subject of gentlemen’s yachts, at the ICC East Coast “Get Together” at Malahide later in the summer, I watched “Sceolaing” the Nicholson 43 now owned by John Delap (ICC) and formerly owned by Leslie Dacus, Sam Dix and of course Dermod Ryan, coming in. Now there’s a boat! Hmmm.
P.S. “And the winner of the 2009 “Rupert” for Scotch whisky is…………the Balvenie!